25.9.02-2.10.02

See more photos of the Ireland trip.

"Good pint in there"



This is what our Irish guide Des(mond) used to say whenever one of the pubs he knew came in sight. He really knew a lot of such places in the small Irish towns we were passing through on our 3-day trip through the countryside of the Irish Republic. Des knew a lot about beers.

The Irish know a lot about Guinness and Murphys. Doolin village taught us a lesson. "This is where it all started," Des said pointing at the Rock of Dunamase with the ruins of an old Norman castle on top. "It's all about women and greed." That's why the English king Henry II came over to Ireland and stayed. The English stayed for 800 years and this is the Irish trauma. On our trip to Belfast, Dublin and the countryside of the Republic we always came back to that subject. "In a little village behind the hills a man named Michael Collins was born, "says Des. Collins signed the agreement with the British in 1921." It was a mistake. Michael was a good soldier, but he was not a politician, not as shrewd as Lloyd George."
The old Irish monasteries were the first universities of Europe. From here Europe was christianized. The monks were Celts, the culture was Celtic and Catholic. Before the English came, everything was better. Everything was Celtic.
The peace wall between Falls Road and Lower Shankill Road in Belfast was a bewildering experience.

Catholics here, Protestants there. It's hard to understand that. "Ulster is British" versus "Remember the heroes who died for Irish freedom". Sectarian slogans painted on the walls.

Des says: "The British should get out, then we could start talking." He can't take us to Protestant Belfast. His coach would be identified as a Catholic vehicle from the Republic. There might be trouble. Belfast is a wounded city. Too much energy has been invested in destruction. There are some signs of a new beginning, like the new concert hall, which our guide proudly shows us.
The showroom of the Guinness brewery in Dublin is a joke. It's for tourists. The multi-media show supposed to explain how Ireland's famous beer is made, is awfully expensive, a collection of sounds and confusing explanations. But from the top of the building you have a wonderful view of Dublin and - a pint. So we enjoyed both, the view and the beer. Dublin is young and dynamic. Trinity College with its famous library and the Book of Kells is something to be proud of.

The Temple Bar is incredible. That's where all the pubs are. We are there, too.
Vote YES - vote NO! Conflicting messages about the treaty of Nice. The Irish have to make up their mind. 63% voted YES on 10th October 2002. That's a good sign. The Irish are Celtic and Irish, but also European. For us it's certainly a pleasure to pay with Euros and to know from the start that a "good pint in there" is expensive (4,80 €). This keeps us from drinking too much.

Heiner Otterbach